Big Island, Hawaii

A Tropical Paradise of Volcanoes, Beaches, and Culture

by Celeste Lipford and Terry Lipford - last updated on 9/1/2024

After we departed Maui, the Big Island was our next stop. Our itinerary there was to spend time in Hilo and Kona, such that we could explore both sides of the island. This is the one Hawaiian Island that we had not previously visited, so our expectations and imagination were primed. We had a good game plan for what to do & see, we had all of our reservations in order, and we thought we were ready for anything. And then the reality of the "Kona Low" took over on the windward side of the island.

The Kona Low is a weather phenomenon that affects the Big Island of Hawaii. It is a low-pressure system that develops off the coast of the island, typically during the winter months. The Kona Low can bring heavy rainfall, strong winds, and high surf to the island, causing flooding and other hazards. However, it can also bring much-needed moisture to the dry regions of the island. The Kona Low is closely monitored by meteorologists and can have a significant impact on the weather patterns of Hawaii.

If we had known, or researched more, about the Kona Low - we would have probably spent less time in the Hilo area. Read on and you will able to see what we mean.

• Hawaii is the World’s Largest Island Chain - It’s also the most remote landmass on the planet. While there are seven inhabited islands, there are another 125 for a total of 132 Hawaiian islands. These cover a span of nearly 1,500 miles across the Pacific.
• The beaches in Hawaii come in 5 different colors (or more) - Everybody knows that Hawaiian beaches are amazing, but not everybody knows that they are also multi-colored. You can find your typical white-sand and brownish beaches, but you’ll also find black, red, pink, and even green. Much of this color variation has to do with the volcanic nature of the islands.
• Hawaii has over 3,000 species of native plants and animals - The islands’ isolated nature makes them home to an impressive amount of different plants and animals that exist nowhere else on Earth. This also means that many of these species are endangered or threatened. You can find an almost endless amount of tropical plants, and there are no native land predators.
• There are only 13 letters in the Hawaiian alphabet - If you have ever wondered why Hawaiian words can be so long and repetitive, it’s because there aren’t many letters to choose from. The only ones used are A, E, I, O, U, H, K, L, M, N, P and W. 5 vowels and 8 consonants. The ' character is a glottal stop called an “okina”.
• Mauna Kea is (technically) the world’s tallest mountain - Hawaii is home to the tallest mountain in the world. This is another fact that leaves many people scratching their heads. Manua Kea is not the tallest above sea level, but it is the tallest from floor to summit, measuring in at 33,500 feet. This makes it close to a mile taller than Mount Everest!
• The Big Island of Hawaii is made up of five volcanoes - The island is still growing and is home to the world’s most active volcano, Kilauea. There have been 61 historical eruptions, and since January 1983 eruptive activity has been continuous along the east rift zone. Mauna Loa is also among Earth’s most active volcanoes, having erupted 33 times since 1843. The shield volcano covers half of the island of Hawaii and is the world’s largest, most massive volcano. Click here to view a National Park Service page that will explain further and give you the history of these volcanoes.
• Big Island's Size - At 4,028.0 square miles, it is the largest Hawaiian Island. In fact, it is the largest island in the entire United States where the second largest is Kodiak Island, Alaska (3,588 square miles) and the third largest is Puerto Rico at 3,513 square miles. Click here to view the Wikipedia Article about islands in the United States.
• Spam in Hawaii - In Hawaii and Guam, more spam is eaten per person than anywhere else in the world. The average Hawaii resident consumes more than five cans of Spam each year. We would suggest you read "the history of Spam in Hawaii" to learn more about this subject.
• The Kīlauea Caldera - It has an extreme length of 2.93 miles, an extreme width of 1.95 miles, a circumference of 7.85 miles and an area of 4.14 square miles. It contains Halemaʻumaʻu, an active pit crater near the caldera's southwestern edge.

The Pacific Ocean depths near the Big Island of Hawaii are among the deepest in the world, with depths reaching over 6,000 meters. The ocean floor in this region is characterized by steep, rocky slopes and canyons that are home to a diverse range of marine life, including deep-sea corals, sponges, and other organisms.

Min & Max Depths near the Big Island

• The ʻAlenuihāhā channel separates the island of Hawaiʻi and the island of Maui. The maximum depth of this channel is 6,100 feet (1,900 m), and the channel is 30 miles wide. It's considered the most dangerous channel in the Hawaiian islands, due to the strong winds.
• The Hawaiian Trough (20 miles north of the Big Island) is about 18,045 feet deep and has a radius of about 8.7 miles. It is also known as the "Hawaiian Deep".

We do not normally describe, or talk about, airports in our Travel Blog. However, Kona is unique in that as you land here and notice all the blackened ground in and around the airport, you realize that the blackened ground is the result of lava flows. Much of the runway is built on lava flow from the 1801 Huʻehuʻe flow from the Hualālai volcano. This flow extended the shoreline out an estimated 1 mi (1.6 km), adding some 1.5 sq miles of land to the Big Island and creating Keāhole Point. The airport opened on July 1, 1970, with a single 6,500-foot runway; the previous smaller airstrip was converted into the Old Kona Airport State Recreation Area.

The airport is also uniquely named after an Astronaut; The airport is named in honor of Ellison Onizuka, a Hawaiian-born astronaut who perished in the Challenger Space Shuttle disaster in 1986. This adds cultural and historical significance to the airport for locals and visitors alike.

Even after we picked up our rental car and proceeded north on Hawaii route 19, there were a number of blackened areas that we could see. It was only after we reached the eastern swing of route 19, that the blackened areas were no longer visible. Click here for a map of our driving route to Hilo from the Kona Airport.

Even though we flew into the Kona Airport, we decided to drive around the northern coast of the Big Island Click here for a map of our route from the Kona Airport to Hilo. because we had never been here and we wanted to see everything we could. Besides which, there was a Portuguese Bakery in Honokaa that we wanted to stop at! The drive is interesting because as you proceed north you depart the "high desert" like environment of the leeward side and you enter the rain forest appearance of the windward side of the island. Little did we know yet, that a Kona Low was going to bring occasional torrential rains to the eastern side of the island! A "Kona Low" describes a switch in the prevailing wind direction over the islands. Typically, Hawaii's weather is dominated by the trade winds which blow from the northeast - however the Kona Low causes moisture rich air to go to places that it does not normally go to and precipitation increases are the end result.

The eastern side (AKA windward side) of the Big Island is covered in green, lush, tropical rainforest. This is made possible by the large amount of rain that falls there, averaging around 140 inches of rain per year! This area is home to many of the Islands' waterfalls, and has interesting terrain, shaped by the rains and winds. Banyan and Bamboo trees are common, and grow to considerable size.

Click here to see where we went in Honokaa and to see an image of the great malasadas there..

Liliʻuokalani Park and Gardens is a 24.14-acre park with Japanese gardens, located on Banyan Drive in Hilo adjacent to the Grand Naniloa Hotel. The park's site was donated by Queen Liliʻuokalani, and lies southeast of downtown Hilo, on the Waiakea Peninsula of Hilo Bay.

The park features meticulously landscaped gardens with lush vegetation, meandering pathways, koi-filled ponds, and picturesque bridges. Its authentic Japanese design, complete with traditional lanterns and hedges, creates a tranquil atmosphere ideal for relaxation and contemplation.

We had been told that turtles were quite frequent at this beach, unfortunately, the turtles did not get the memo that we were looking for them, but we did find some pretty neat lagoons.

One of the Carlsmith Beach Park's main attractions is the series of natural pools formed by lava rock formations, known as "Queen's Bath." These calm, brackish pools are perfect for swimming and snorkeling, and they provide a safe and relaxing experience for visitors of all ages. Much of this side of the island is made up of lava rocks but the ocean bottom at Carlsmith Beach Park is relatively smooth and sandy.

The park's expansive lawn area, shaded by swaying palm trees, offers a peaceful setting for picnics and sunbathing. It's also a fantastic spot to witness the breathtaking sunrise over the Pacific Ocean.

More Info for Carlsmith Beach Park

• Carlsmith Beach Park Website
• Carlsmith Beach Park Google Images Set
• Carlsmith Beach Park on the "Hawaii Beaches" Website
• Google Reviews for Carlsmith Beach Park

Akaka Falls State Park

Located 16.6 miles from our hotel, there are actually two waterfalls; Akaka Falls (442 feet high) and Kahuna Falls (100 feet). The walkway is paved for the entire route around the grounds (.4 mile) and there are roughly 200+ steps, so the trail is not wheelchair accessible. The parking lot is not large, and you should arrive here early in the day to avoid the tour buses that will start arriving after 10am.

As you walk along the walkway, you’ll first come across the smaller Kahūnā Falls, which cascades down 100 feet. Continuing on, the trail leads to the majestic ʻAkaka Falls, which plunges 442 feet into a deep gorge below. The sight of ʻAkaka Falls, set against the backdrop of dense tropical foliage, is truly breathtaking and offers excellent photo opportunities. The sound of the waterfall and the surrounding birdsong enhances the tranquil, natural atmosphere.

The park also offers interpretive signs along the trail, providing information about the local flora and fauna, including details about native Hawaiian plants. The easy hike is suitable for all ages, making it an ideal destination for families and nature lovers alike.

The hike through the jungle to see the two waterfalls is not strenuous, and the views are constantly changing as you walk along.

Wailuku River State Park - Rainbow Falls and Boiling Pots

Within the 18 mile-long Wailuku River, near downtown Hilo, one can find the Rainbow Falls - 80 feet tall and almost 100 feet in diameter. Rainbow Falls got its name from the fact that on sunny mornings around 10am, rainbows can be seen in the mist thrown up by the waterfall.

According to the United States Geological Survey, the river was formed by at least two lava flows coming from Mauna Kea, the oldest being as old as 10,500 years old, which is the same flow that formed Rainbow Falls. The “Boiling Pots of Wailuku” article by Katie Yamanaka states that the Boiling Pots get their name due to the sensation that happens when it storms, making the river rise and creating the “Boiling” look within the pots.

The Boiling Pots area are located approximately 1.7 miles west of Rainbow Falls accessible via Waianuenue Avenue.

We were able to cover quite a bit of ground during our stay in Hilo, as far north as Akaka Falls State Park, Rainbow Falls & Boiling Pots, as well as downtown Hilo. Carl Smith Beach Park to the east of Hilo, as well as Richardson Ocean Park. Point being, there is quite a bit to see and do here. If the weather had cooperated, we had plans to do even more but that will have to wait for another trip here.

As you can in the above images, we narrowly avoided getting caught in a rain induced rock slide that closed the highway we were taking down to the beach near the Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden (Old Mamalahoa Highway, Papaikou). Needless to say, we had to turn around and go back up to the highway! The size of those boulders made it clear that it was going to take some effort to clear the road.

We had plans to visit the Waipio Valley area, but discovered that Hawaii had stopped allowing private vehicles to traverse the only road in that valley. Waipio Valley Road is open to locals who live or work there, or if you are in a tour bus - but otherwise you are precluded from driving on that road. We might have taken the tour bus, but with the weather being so erratic, we decided to skip it.

Exploring the Kilauea Caldera Area

The concept of standing next to a caldera this large, and realizing that what you are looking at is a "volcano plug" and that if that plug were to "let go" that you would be obliterated - is amazing. And then we walked through a "lava tube"!! The entire experience was something that defies explanation, it was other worldly indeed!

The caldera is massive; it has a length of 2.93 miles, a width of 1.95 miles, a circumference of 7.85 miles and an area of 4.14 square miles. That is a huge whole in the ground! You can drive around the caldera on Crater Rim Drive and that will allow you to circumnavigate the entire caldera. We decided to only drive around the northern and eastern side of the caldera, as we wanted to be in the Pahala area of the island next.

A Few Interesting Facts about Kilauea

• Kilauea is a shield volcano, which means it has a broad, gently sloping cone, similar to the shield of a warrior. Shield volcanoes are the largest volcanoes on earth.
• Kohola is the oldest volcano on Hawaii Island at more than one million years old and Kilauea is the youngest at between 300,000 and 600,000 years old.
• Since 1823 Kilauea has had 61 different eruptions.
• In 2014 Kilauea's lava flow threatened to destroy the Hawaiian town Pahoa, but the flow stopped short of the town and by 2015 the threat appeared to be greatly reduced.
• Kilauea is currently the world’s most active volcanic mass.

NOTE: We'd like to thank the folks at "Soft Schools" for the above facts about Kilauea. click here to view their entire list of facts.

This was a day trip we made from Hilo, just to get out of the constant rainfall! This 62 acre oceanfront resort offers a taste of the island life, poolside relaxation, a really nice Dolphins lagoon, multiple pools, beaches/lagoons and even a Disney style tram to move people about the facility.

There are tennis courts, a fitness room with fitness classes, and a running track. They also offer all sorts of water sports including paddle boarding and kayaking in the 4 acre saltwater lagoon. There are also three swimming pools, including one with a spectacular 175 foot water slide and a waterfall, and one that is an adults only pool. There are two championship golf courses available at the resort; You can play a round at either the Waikoloa Beach Resort’s oceanfront Beach Course or the King’s Course on the sunny Kohala Coast.

Hilton offers a "Day Pass" (good for 10am to 5pm) which allows you full access to all of their amenities. If you make a minimum $50 food and beverage purchase, they will also validate your parking ticket as well. It isn't cheap, but given that Hilo was going through torrential rains, it felt great to kick back and enjoy a sunny day, watch the Dolphins play, and explore.

As you can see in our images, this is a very large hotel complex but it is really nicely laid out. Each of the pools (and the lagoon) are widely separated from each other, and there are numerous facilities to make your visit or stay as comfortable as possible.

The drive from Hilo to Waikoloa brings you alongside Mauna Kea on Hawaii route 200. It is an interesting drive, and it is fascinating to see that Mauna Kea has snow at the top! It is a wee bit nerve wracking to think that you are on a road, in an area between two huge volcanoes (Mauna Kea & Mauna Loa), and if either were to erupt, you could be obliterated!

The height of Mauna Kea allows the summit to be constantly snow covered, as you can see in the above image.  Map We could have made a stop at the Mauna Kea Observatory, which is approximately 15 miles from Hawaii route 200 (formerly known as Saddle Road), but we could already see the snow on the summit and we were ready for some sunshine that we knew we'd have at the Hilton Waikoloa Resort. If you have more time, then you might want to consider visiting the summit observatories - they are described as providing the best star gazing that you will have ever seen.

It helps to have read that Mauna Loa last erupted in November 2022, so we could somewhat assume that we would not be caught in that volcano's eruption as we drove by. Mauna Kea last erupted 4,500 years ago - so it was reasonably safe to assume that we would not be caught up in an eruption from that volcano either. Note that the USGS says that Mauna Kea will eventually erupt again.

Because the drive from Hilo to Kailua-Kona via Volcanoes National Park was a very long day, with a lot of stressful driving, we wound up stopping at several interesting coffee establishments along the way, including; Kaʻū Coffee Mill Plantation   (Pahala, HI) where we got to see a huge macadamia nut tree grove as well as the coffee farm.

After we got a few more miles down the road, we stopped at the Miranda Coffee Farm Cafe   (Naalehu, HI) and had an excellent iced coffee. In between those two stops, we had malasadas at the Punalu'u Bake Shop   also in Naalehu.

There are more than 650 coffee farms of all sizes clustered along the ±20 miles of scenic roads on the Hualalai and Mauna Loa slopes. Many of these farms offer tours to the public, click here to view a web page describing various Kona Coffee tours that are available.

This turned out to be a 145+ mile drive, through some really interesting areas - however - all on curvy, narrow two lane roads, very little traffic but the road required very focused attention.  Map

NOTE 1: Ka'u coffee beans are recognized around the globe for their intense flavor, smooth delicate flavor and low acidity. Grown next door to the Kona Coffee belt, Kau Coffee has been dubbed the "cousin of Kona." Point being, both the Kaʻū Coffee Mill Plantation and the Miranda Coffee Farm Cafe sell Ka'u coffee and not Kona.

NOTE 2: Coffee comes from trees and not bushes. Coffee trees are pruned short to conserve their energy and aid in harvesting, but can grow to more than 30 feet in height. Click here to read a complete description regarding coffee plants.

NOTE 3: Kona coffee is the market name for coffee (Coffea arabica) cultivated on the slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa. Ka'u coffee is also considered to be "coffee arabica". Click here for a more detailed description of Kona and Ka'u coffees.

Coffee Plantations Explorations

On our drive through Naalehu & Pahala and on to Kailua-Kona, we passed through areas where coffee plantations are numerous. As route 11 winds its way through the hills, visitors are treated to stunning vistas of the Pacific Ocean, rolling green hills, and rugged volcanic terrain. You will want to keep your camera at the ready, because some of the coastline views are amazing.

Since we were scheduled to fly back to the mainland from Kona Airport to Los Angeles, our plans were to depart Hilo and move over to Kailua-Kona. This would leave us within 7 miles of the airport, in a town that is loaded with restaurants and beautiful coastline. As you see by our images, the coastline is very pretty, and cruise ships arrive here frequently. However, we had thought we had left all of the rain behind in Hilo, but it chased us all the way across the Big Island and we got rain in the morning of our last Saturday.

We didn't realize how popular the area was until we started doing some research for this web page, ie; Kailua-Kona is the start and finish of the annual triathlon Ironman World Championship  , the Kona Coffee Festival  , and the Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament  .

Kailua-Kona Scenes

Our condo was situated in a great location, and there was a excellent view of the bay as well as the surrounding area. Numerous restaurants and pubs surrounded us. The front steps of our condo were on Ali'i Drive, and the Ocean was just on the other side of the street. Image # 1 above was our view as we came out the front door of the condo building, image # 2 is the condo building, image # 3 is south of the condo approximately 1/2 block and image # 4 is our condo building's parking lot.

NOTE: Just wanted to point out that we rented this nice condo through VRBO, and we have always had very good luck with them! We don't want to sound like an advertisement for VRBO, but they have global reach now that they are a part of the Expedia Empire, and we've used them for rentals all over the world and have never had any problems.

NOTE: Click here to view this VRBO rental on the VRBO website

Searching for Pele's Well

We wanted to search for and visit "Pele's Well" (located within Wawaloli Beach Park  ) which is a lava tube that surfaces just below the surface of the Ocean.

Pele's Well, also known as The Witch's Well, is a natural blowhole on the Big Island of Hawaii, near Queen's Bath. Located along the island's rugged coastline, Pele’s Well is formed from volcanic rock, which creates a natural pool that fills with seawater during high tides and large ocean swells. When waves crash against the rocks, water surges into the well, creating dramatic and powerful sprays that shoot up into the air.

Named after Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes, the well is a mesmerizing and dangerous phenomenon. Visitors should exercise extreme caution, as large waves can unpredictably sweep over the rocks and cause powerful surges in the well, making it dangerous for those too close to the edge.

We were sure that we were pretty close to Pele's Well, but we did not apparently get to the correct location. Even so, this area was interesting and we explored it as far as we could.

Manini'owali Beach at Kua Bay

Once the rain relented, we decided to drive up to Kua Bay as our research had shown us that the beach there was very pretty. What we did not discover during our research, was that parking there is very limited and is available only along the narrow road that leads there. We were fortunate to be in a tiny car and were able to grab a parking spot!

While the beach is beautiful, visitors should be aware that there is little shade, so sun protection is essential. The beach has basic amenities like restrooms and showers, but there are no lifeguards on duty, so swimmers need to be cautious of changing ocean conditions.

WARNING: The parking here is very limited, you need to get here early in the day or you may not be able to find a parking spot.