Visit to Kauau, Hawaii

We departed Oahu for Kauai on the morning of Saturday, December 27, 2008, catching a flight to Lihue Airport. Our destination was a beautiful condo on Papaloa Road, overlooking the serene waters of Wailua Bay. The anticipation was high as none of us had ever set foot on the Garden Isle before. With its lush landscapes, cascading waterfalls, and breathtaking beaches, Kauai had always been a dream destination for us. We had carefully crafted an itinerary filled with must-see spots and hidden gems, eager to explore everything from the dramatic cliffs of the Na Pali Coast to the scenic trails of Waimea Canyon. Our adventure was about to begin!

Kauaʻi offers a diverse culinary scene with a wide range of dining options. As of February 2025, TripAdvisor lists 516 restaurants on the island. These establishments encompass various cuisines and dining experiences, from casual eateries to fine dining.

The following restaurants are (as of 2/26/2025) the five most popular restaurants on Kauai based upon customer reviews. You should note that review ratings will vary as new reviews are submitted to Google;

1. Pono Market: Google Review Rating 4.7 based upon 969 reviews. They offer poke, musubu as well as various Hawaiian foods.
2. Hukilau Lanai: Since our opening in April of 2002, Hukilau Lanai has sought out local farms and products for our menu. We strive to be earth conscious by using eco-friendly products and supporting local agriculture and businesses. Google Review Rating 4.7 based upon 1,300+ reviews.
3. Break + Feast: A new restaurant concept by Kiawe Roots. Serving brunch all day. Located in the new Koloa Village. Take a Break and Feast. Google Review Rating 4.6 based upon 179 reviews.
4. RUSSELL'S by Eat Healthy Kauai: Laid-back, BYOB cafe featuring vegan & gluten-free offerings, plus live bands & garden seating. Google Review Rating 4.6 based upon 920 reviews.
5. Keoki's Paradise: Charming, family-friendly restaurant for thoughtfully sourced, island-inspired dishes, plus cocktails, wine & beer. Google Review Rating 4.5 based upon 4,100+ reviews.

If you would prefer to do your own restaurant research, here is a link to a Google Search Results list of all restaurants.

This picture is a view of the Lae Nani Beach next to our Kauai condo building, our room was perhaps 75 yards from the beach and at night with the sliding glass doors open, we would enjoy the surf sounds!

Staying at a condo on Lae Nani Beach in Kauai offered us a tranquil and picturesque experience, perfect for visitors seeking a blend of comfort and natural beauty. Lae Nani Beach is located on the east coast of Kauai, near the town of Kapa'a, often referred to as the Coconut Coast for its lush palm groves. The condos in this area are typically part of beachfront resorts, offering private lanais (balconies), fully-equipped kitchens, and stunning ocean views.

This east coast location was convenient for exploring both the north shore and the south shore of Kauai, making it a great base for adventurers who want to hike the Na Pali Coast, visit Waimea Canyon, or enjoy a boat tour along the Wailua River. The peaceful environment combined with the central location makes Lae Nani Beach condos a sought-after option for travelers looking for a serene getaway.

Our accommodations goal was to try and replicate the type of condo we had on Maui during our 2005 trip (ie; on the beach, first floor unit with a sliding glass door walk-out to the beach a few steps away, etc) and we nailed it perfectly (kudos to my wife who always plans these things incredibly well !).

Image # 1 is a view of the beach from the condo we rented, just a few steps away and you were on the sand! Image # 2 is the beach adjacent to the condo.

Kauai was everything we'd read and then some, just a large, lush and incredibly verdant island. Somewhat bigger than Guam (which is 30 miles in length and 4 to 12 miles in width) at 33 miles wide by 25 miles long, it has roads around 75% of the island.

Please excuse my Guam reference, I lived there for two years when my parents were stationed at Andersen Air Force Base there, so my island references are formed by my Guam experiences.

Our first day trip we decided to drive north on Hawaiian Route 560 (Kuhio Highway) which took us past Haena State Park and we noticed this cave, named Maniniholo Dry Cave. Naturally, we had to stop and explore the area.

The Maniniholo Dry Cave is a fascinating natural wonder located at the base of the cliffs near Haena Beach on the north shore of Kauai. This shallow cave is about 300 feet deep and was formed thousands of years ago by ocean waves eroding the limestone cliffs. Unlike many caves in Hawaii, this one is dry, making it easy for visitors to explore without the need for special equipment.

According to Hawaiian legend, the cave was named after Maniniholo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune, a mythical race of small people believed to have inhabited the islands. The story suggests that Maniniholo and his men dug the cave in search of an evil spirit that was stealing their fish. While the cave doesn’t lead deep into the earth, it offers an intriguing glimpse into the geological processes that shaped Kauai’s coastline.

The cave's location near Haena Beach makes it a convenient stop for visitors exploring the area, including nearby attractions such as Ke’e Beach and the trailhead to the Na Pali Coast. The area around the cave is lush and scenic, with stunning views of the towering cliffs and nearby ocean. It’s a popular spot for tourists to take photos, relax, and imagine the rich history and mythology of the island.

There are no roads on the far western side of Kauai (the Na Pali coast) only some very rugged trails. We managed to nearly circumnavigate all the roads around the island, as we wanted to experience everything the island had to offer.

Nā Pali Coast State Park located on Kauai’s northwestern shore is one of Hawaii’s most breathtaking natural wonders, featuring towering sea cliffs, lush valleys, waterfalls, and remote beaches. The 16-mile coastline is renowned for its dramatic topography, where steep cliffs, rising as high as 4,000 feet, plunge into the Pacific Ocean. The name "Nā Pali" means "the cliffs" in Hawaiian, reflecting the rugged, inaccessible nature of much of the area.

The park is only accessible by boat, helicopter, or via the Kalalau Trail, a challenging 11-mile trek that leads hikers from Ke'e Beach to Kalalau Beach, offering incredible views of the cliffs, lush valleys, and waterfalls along the way. This trail is not for the faint of heart, as it traverses narrow ridges and slippery slopes, but for those who venture along it, the reward is unparalleled views and the secluded beauty of the coast.

Waimea Canyon is a 41 mile drive from where our condo rental was in Kapaa, but the road takes you past some varied geography; beaches, forests, and then finally you are at the Waimea Canyon Lookout!

It is no wonder that Waimea Canyon is known as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" You can see quite a bit of the canyon from the lookout point where we stopped.

Our short walk into Waimea Canyon (note that it is difficult to get an idea of how large the canyon is from a Google Map, bear in mind that it is 3,000 feet deep!). As Kauai is the oldest geologically speaking of all eight Hawaiian Islands, there has been sufficient geologic time to create Waimea Canyon via the same mechanism as Arizona's Grand Canyon - erosion. We walked only a short way into the canyon, as the majority of the trails are just too steep & rugged for our kids. If it had been just Celeste and I, we might have tackled it, as it is quite unique.

We are not in this picture, but this is what it looks like to take part in a kayak tour of the Wailua River on our way to Secret Falls. We selected Wailua River Kayaking because they were close to where we were staying.

We rented two 2 person kayaks, so on the way out to the Secret Falls, it was Chelsea and me in one kayak and Jeremy and Celeste in the other. We reversed that order on the way back.

Kayaking on the Wailua River in Kauai is a scenic adventure that combines outdoor exploration with the island’s natural beauty. The Wailua River is the only navigable river in Hawaii, and it winds through lush tropical landscapes, offering kayakers a unique view of Kauai’s verdant mountains and rainforests.

As you paddle upstream, the river's calm waters make for a relaxing trip suitable for all skill levels. Along the way, you’ll pass through areas rich in Hawaiian history, including ancient heiau (temples) and sacred sites. The highlight of the trip is often a stop at the trailhead for Secret Falls (Uluwehi Falls), a 120-foot waterfall reached after a short hike through the jungle.

This was the ultimate reward—after an adventurous kayak journey from near Wailua and a challenging trek across a brutally muddy trail, we finally arrived at the breathtaking Secret Falls! The hike was no easy feat; the thick, sticky mud clung to our feet, making every step a battle. It was so intense that it repeatedly pulled our sandals right off, forcing us to either go barefoot or continuously retrieve our lost footwear from the muck.

But the effort was more than worth it. As we stepped into the cool, refreshing water beneath the falls, it felt amazing to rinse off the layers of mud we had accumulated along the way. The cascading water was invigorating, and the misty air carried a sense of adventure and accomplishment.

As you can see from these pictures, we weren’t the only ones drawn to Secret Falls that day. A good number of fellow adventurers had made the journey as well. Interestingly, we discovered that Hawaiian Route 583 ran behind and above the falls, and several people had simply walked down from that area instead of braving the kayak-and-mud route we had taken.

And that picture of our mud-caked feet? That’s no exaggeration—the trail to Secret Falls wasn’t just muddy; it was an all-consuming swamp of supercharged, nuclear-powered mud that seemed to have a mind of its own. It latched onto shoes and refused to let go, making each step an unpredictable challenge. But looking back, the struggle made the experience even more memorable. Secret Falls wasn’t just a place—it was an adventure!

This is Kauapea Beach (AKA "Secret Beach") that we had read about, and we stopped here from our driving adventure along Hawaiian Route 560. This route takes you to the "end of the road" and from there you can only hike the western side of Kauai.

On the way back, we exited Hawaiian Route 56 and drove to the Secret Beach Trail Head and hiked down this steep trail to the beach. Beautiful beach and area, and almost completely devoid of people - quite possibly because it is not simple to get there !

As we walked about Kauapea Beach, we noticed that some of the trees on the hills next to the beach, had their root systems "washed out" by the Pacific Ocean waves. This made us realize that since this tree was quite a ways away from the surf line, that obviously the surf would occasionally have to get very large to reach this tree! And then we realized that somehow this tree had managed to "cling" to the ground via it's root system, such that even in the face of the obviously gigantic surf waves, that it was still standing!

The beaches and bays on Kauai are numerous and beautiful, perhaps one could say that all the Hawaiian Islands are "similar" but Kauai is so much less developed than the other islands, so it seems more like "getting back to nature" than the other islands. Even the beaches that at first glance seemed like they might be more "commercial" were great. For example, Kalapaki Beach is next to the Marriott Hotel, but was quite nice. If you get there, have lunch at Duke's, as it has a good menu and all four of us enjoyed the food.

One side issue of going there in December is that it is rainy season, which really wasn't an issue for us as we were in bathing suits or shorts the entire week. But on two of our hikes, the trails were quite muddy in places. The Wailua River Waterfall hike (after we got out of the kayaks) was pretty muddy, but not steep, so we didn't have any problems on that trail.

The last hike on Kauai that we made (to a mountain named "Sleeping Giant") was quite steep in places, so although going up wasn't an issue, coming down was a challenge because of all the slippery mud. I wound up doing a couple of "butt plants" on the mud, but there were a lot of places where we just slid down on our shoes, as though we were skating!

Hiking the Sleeping Giant Trail on Kauai offers a moderately challenging yet rewarding experience with panoramic views of the island’s east side. The trail, officially known as the Nounou Mountain Trail, is named after the ridge's shape, which resembles a giant lying on his back. The trailhead is accessible from both the east (via Wailua Houselots) and west sides, with the east route being the most popular.

The 3.4-mile round-trip hike ascends through lush forests of guava and ironwood trees, offering occasional viewpoints along the way. As you climb, you'll encounter switchbacks, some rocky terrain, and a few steep sections, but nothing too technical. After about 1 to 2 hours of hiking, you'll reach the summit of the "giant’s chest," where breathtaking views of Kapaa, the coastline, and the surrounding mountains await.

At the top, there is a scenic picnic area, perfect for resting and taking in the sweeping vistas. The trail is well-maintained but can become muddy after rain, so it’s advisable to wear proper hiking shoes. The trail is suitable for most skill levels, though the final climb to the "head" of the giant is optional and more strenuous.

United Air Lines (UAL) once again attempted to change our seat assignments on the return flight, even though we had made the reservations many months prior. Because we had utilized miles to pay for the flights, UAL acted as though we were "fair game" to change our seats whenever they felt like it.   We explained that we had minor children flying with us, and oh yeah, the seats had been assigned for a long time. The UAL desk clerk tried to tell us that "seat assignments were not guaranteed" Which is a joke, because if we had paid for these flights, our seat assignments would not have been changed.

NOTE: - see "Post Edit" below for what we found out later about "seat assignments".

Our flight back to Washington D.C. (via Chicago again) was okay, but somewhat disappointing in that UAL used an older Boeing 777, which meant that the backs of the seats did not have a separate video screen for each passenger. The newer model 777's do have the separate screens ( on any trip to Denver, we've always had newer aircraft ?? ), but since we were flying back at night, perhaps not having the separate screens wasn't a big deal.

United put me into first class from Chicago to DC, it is only 1.5 hours duration flight, so there wasn't much to enjoy except for the much better seat. Gave me a chance to relax and get a bit of a nap, cause the economy plus seats were not quite comfortable and the man immediately in front of me had an Olympic quality snoring thing going on! Still not sure why I was given first class, thought perhaps it was because I've been a member of their mileage club for 30+ years, or because I filled out an online questionnaire? Oh well, best to not look a gift horse in the mouth right ?

So the trip overall rating is "exceedingly excellent" and was typical for our family - ie; lots of adventures!

POST EDIT: Since this airplane seat assignment issue caused such heartburn, we researched it once we got back home and found that airlines can do pretty much what they want with your seat assignment. Click here to read what United Airlines says about it.

• Just Traveling Thru Travel Planning Tips
• Kauai Article on the "Wikipedia" site "
• Kauai on the "Go Hawaii" Website
• Kauai Hawaii Website
• The "Lovers Passport" Kauai Page
• Visit Kauai on 'Lonely Planet' Site
• Best Kauai Tours on 'The Crazy Tourist' Site
• Google Search Results list for "Kauai Restaurants"
• Google Search Results list for "accommodations on Kauai"
• Google Images set for Kauai
• Kauai on the "Get Your Guide" site
• Kauai Helicopter Tours on the "Fly Kauai" site