A Visit to the Dordogne River Valley
Geography, Châteaux, and Cuisine in the Dordogne River Valley
by Celeste Lipford and Terry Lipford - last updated on 4/13/2024
The Dordogne River Valley is studded with enchanting medieval towns and villages, each exuding a timeless charm. Sarlat-la-Canéda, Rocamadour, and Beynac-et-Cazenac are just a few examples of these well-preserved historical gems. Our "base camp" for this portion of the trip, is old-town Sarlat-la-Canéda. We drove to Sarlat-la-Canéda (from Amboise) and even though it was only a 380 kilometer drive, the route took us through rolling hills, vineyards, and quaint villages. The countryside is dotted with charming stone cottages and fields of sunflowers, offering a quintessential French countryside experience. Note of warning - this area is sparsely populated and cellular connectivity is minimal in certain areas. Narrow roads combined with drainage ditches that paralled the road (on both sides), create dangerous driving conditions if you are not careful.
The Loire and Dordogne rivers are two of France's most iconic waterways, each with its unique characteristics, landscapes, and historical significance. They play distinct roles in France's culture, economy, and heritage. This portion of our trip was to be a fun exploration of the Dordogne River Valley and to explore various villages, chateaux and other sites.
The Dordogne River meanders through southwestern France, offering a different kind of beauty. The Dordogne region is characterized by its dramatic limestone cliffs, deep gorges, and picturesque villages like Rocamadour and Sarlat. This area is a testament to prehistoric history, with the famous Lascaux Caves showcasing ancient cave paintings. The Dordogne River also has historical significance in trade and transport, with many of its castles and fortifications serving as strongholds during medieval conflicts.
Just Traveling Thru Travel Guide | The Dordogne River Valley — Explore the best of the Dordogne region in France in this travel guide video - showing you some of the top sites and best things to see and do in the French Countryside. Explore the Dordogne and this southern France itinerary and Dordogne France VLOG. See some of the prettiest villages in the Dordogne region. From the medieval charm of Sarlat La Canéda to the breathtaking views in Rocamadour, we\'ve covered key destinations, including Beynac, Domme, Château des Milandes, and the Dordogne River. Get practical tips and essential information for your visit. Join us as we share insights, scenes, and valuable advice including the best location for a home base and how to visit Rocamadour; one of the most stunning Chateaux in the region built into the side of limestone cliffs.
Click the image to start our Dordogne Region Travel Guide video - Tips and Scenes from Sarlat, Beynac, Domme, plus Rocamadour. Pleaase note that this video is the property of Just Traveling Thru, LLC. If you enjoy our videos click here to subscribe to our Youtube Channel.
Where is the Dordogne River Valley? Map
The quick statistics are that Sarlat-la-Canéda is 527 kilometers south of Paris and 210 kilometers east of Bordeaux. Think of the Dordogne Region being located in the southern third of France.
To further clarify it's location; the Dordogne Valley was created by the Dordogne River. The Dordogne River flows west from the mountains of Auvergne 500 kilometres (310 mi) through the Limousin and Périgord regions before flowing into the Gironde, its common estuary with the Garonne, at the Bec d'Ambès ("Ambès beak"), north of the city of Bordeaux. Our base camp in Sarlat-la-Canéda, was 10 kilometers from Dordogne River. All of the sites that we visited while in Sarlat, were close to Sarlat, for example, Rocamadour is 44 kilometers from Sarlat and Château de Beynac was only 12 kilometers via the D-57 route. Click the above map icon to view a Google Map of the Sarlat area.
There is some confusion as to the Périgord and Dordogne Regions - the Périgord and the Dordogne department are synonymous and designate the same territory. The Perigord Noir (Black Perigord) is the most visited region of the Dordogne, and includes Beynac, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, La Roque Gageac, Sarlat and Domme.
Dordogne Itinerary: As you will see on this page, we chose to "base-camp" in Sarlat and drive to various destinations. As Rocamadour is the farthest from Sarlat, you should consider that as a full day-trip because you will be traversing narrow country roads. Château de Beynac, Château des Milandes and Domme are all within 10 kilometers from each other and you could perhaps do all three in one day, but we would recommend that you take at least two days to see these interesting locations. Sarlat is at least a one day exploration all by itself, which means you would need a minimum of four days to see these destinations.
Dordogne Castles: (AKA Dordogne Chateaux) The Dordogne Region is said to contain 1001 castles, however it is estimated that there are just over 10,000 châteaux in France which means that the Dordogne Region has 10% of the total. What we saw in the Loire Valley region were mostly large palaces, but in the Dordogne Region most of what we saw were primarily Fortresses.
Dordogne Travel: The French road system is very good in this area, however all of the roads we drove on would be considered "country roads" in the United States. All were in good condition, but frequent hills, some steep, many curves and sometimes single lane bridges, requires you to remain alert while driving.
Village of Sarlat-la-Canéda Map
We selected Sarlat-la-Canéda as our "Dordogne Valley Base Camp" due to it's proximity to a number of destinations that we planned to visit. Plus we rented a beautiful VRBO apartment on the third floor of a building in the heart of the "old town" - and - the apartment came with indoor secure parking (located several blocks from the apartment, but very secure).
Sarlat-la-Canéda, often simply referred to as Sarlat, is a captivating medieval town situated in the Dordogne region of southwestern France. Renowned for its exceptionally well-preserved architecture, Sarlat is like a step back in time (it is considered as one of France's best examples of a 14th century town), offering visitors a glimpse into the rich history and culture of the area.
The town's golden sandstone buildings, winding cobblestone streets, and charming squares transport visitors to the heart of the Middle Ages. Sarlat's stunning architecture includes numerous well-preserved Renaissance and Gothic buildings, as well as an impressive cathedral.
Sarlat is famous for its bustling markets, where you can sample the region's exquisite gastronomy, including truffles, foie gras, and walnut products. The market square, Place de la Liberté (located adjacent to our VRBO rental unit), is the vibrant center of these culinary delights.
We have been refering to Sarlat as a "village", but most documentation you will find will say "town". With a current population of 8,788 (2020), I would tend to think that "village" is appropriate.
Beyond its architectural and culinary treasures, Sarlat is an ideal base for exploring the picturesque Dordogne region, known for its stunning landscapes, prehistoric caves, and historic castles. It is easy to escape to the surrounding countryside and enjoy the fresh air and stunning scenery. Hike or bike through the rolling hills and vineyards, explore the Dordogne River by canoe, or go hot air ballooning for breathtaking aerial views.
Sarlat-la-Canéda, Dordogne Apartment Rental Map
Because our VRBO Sarlat-la-Canéda rental was so clean & modern, and because the people who owned it were so amazingly nice to us, we thought that we would show you a few images of their beautiful apartment and give you the VRBO link. We would highly recommend that if you are ever in the Sarlat area and need a nice apartment to stay in, that you should take a look at this unit. (No, we get no money or anything else from the owners or VRBO, we just thought that this was a really nice apartment at a nice rental price)
When you consider that this apartment is right in the heart of old town, and that it comes with a secure indoor parking spot, and the apartment is very modern with new appliances including air conditioning - then you will realize that it would be difficult to find anything that would be better in Sarlat!
More Info for Sarlat-la-Canéda
- Parking: Keep in mind that this is a small town, however there are several parking lots scattered around town. Here is a link to a Google Maps list of the Sarlat-la-Canéda parking locations. And yes, they will fill up quickly, so you need to arrive early to get a spot.
- Restaurants: Here is a Google Search Results link for restaurants in Sarlat-la-Canéda.
- Further Info: Additional visitation information can be found on the "Get Your Guide" site.
- Wikipedia Article: Click here to view the Sarlat-la-Canéda Wikipedia Article.
- Our Image Gallery: Click here to view our Sarlat-la-Canéda Image Gallery.
- Google Image Gallery: Click here to view the Google Images set for Sarlat-la-Canéda.
- Sarlat-la-Canéda Tourism Office: Click here to visit the Tourism Office Website.
- Accommodations in Sarlat-la-Canéda: This is perhaps the largest town in this area of the Dordogne, the 2015 population was 9,030. There are over 170 accommodations (as of February 2024) in the area. Here is a Google List link for accommodations in Sarlat-la-Canéda, France.
Recommended Sarlat-la-Canéda Restaurants
Before I complete this part of our blog, I have to point out that we had the good fortune to visit three really good restaurants while in Sarlat-la-Canéda. Everyone's perspectives may differ, so click here if you want to read what "the Fork Website" thinks the 10 Best Restaurants in Sarlat-la-Canéda are. Or click here to view a Google Search Results list for "restaurants in Sarlat-la-Canéda".
Maison Massoulier
We had their petit dejeuner just about every morning we were in Sarlat; fresh squeezed Orange Juice, excellent coffee and all of the pastries were very fresh. It was only a short walk from our VRBO rental in old town (restaurant is at 32 Rue de la République), but well worth every step!
Tara Di Piu Ice Cream
This shop was next door to our VRBO rental in Sarlat, and their ice cream was very good! The quality of the ice cream here guaranteed customers, so you had to exercise patience.
Les Saveurs du Portugal
We had spent a very busy morning exploring various areas south of Sarlat, and by the time we drove back to Sarlat, we were starved. We stopped here because we had driven past it several times, and being hungry, we decided to give it a try. Wow, to say we enjoyed the food would not be a "strong enough" endorsement.
Rocamadour, France Map
Rocamadour had been one of our destination targets since the very first trip planning sessions, as it represents one of the more unusual sites we'd ever seen or read about. The images we had seen of the buildings on the side & top of that cliff were amazing and we were really looking forward to visiting there. The drive from Sarlat to Rocamadour is via country roads/back roads that are narrow with lots of curves. The distance was only 51 kilometers however the roads were challenging to the point where it took 1.5 hours to arrive.
Rocamadour, often referred to as a "Vertical Village," is a breathtaking medieval town perched precariously on the side of a sheer limestone cliff in southwestern France. This unique and enchanting destination is a place of profound religious significance and natural beauty. Rocamadour owes its origin to St. Amadour who (according to tradition) chose this place as a hermitage for his devotions to the Virgin Mary.
At the heart of Rocamadour is the Sanctuary of Rocamadour, a complex of religious buildings that have drawn pilgrims for centuries. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the Church of Notre Dame (built in 1479) contains the wooden figure of the Black Madonna - reputed to have been carved by St. Amadour himself.
Pilgrims were expected to climb the Grand Escalier on their knees, a steep flight of 216 steps, as an act of penance, seeking solace, and hoping for miracles. As reports of miracles happening at Rocamadour spread throughout Europe, visitors began to arrive looking for their own miracle. King Henry Plantagenet came to find a miraculous cure. St. Louis IX of France followed in the next century and Rocamadour became an important pilgrimage destination.
The town's architecture is a remarkable sight, with its ancient buildings seemingly stacked on top of each other along the cliffside. The charming medieval streets are lined with shops selling local handicrafts, goat cheese, and other regional specialties.
Rocamadour's unique blend of spirituality, history, and natural grandeur makes it an unforgettable destination for travelers seeking a profound and visually stunning experience in the heart of France.
More Info for Rocamadour
- Parking: The parking lot is a just a few blocks from the visitor center on the right and from a magnificent viewpoint of Rocamadour on the left. Parking P2 is right behind the castle.
- Tickets: Entrance to the Rocamadour ramparts costs €/$2 (per person to be paid in cash) before entering.
- Hours: Summer 09.00 – 19.00; Winter 09.00 – 18.00.
- Restaurants: Here is a Google Search Results link for restaurants in Rocamadour.
- Best Time to Visit: Between mid-April and mid-October Rocamadour tourism visits are over two million visitors. Go early in the day to insure you can find parking and entrance without waiting.
- Further Info: Additional visitation information can be found on the "Get Your Guide" site.
- Wikipedia Article: Click here to view the Wikipedia Article.
- Our Image Gallery: Click here to view our Rocamadour Image Gallery.
- Google Image Gallery: Click here to view the Google Images set for Rocamadour.
- Accommodations in or near Rocamadour: Rocamadour is a very small village (2015 population was 628) and it is pretty much a ways out in the countryside (51 kilometers from Sarlat as an example). There are several small hotels near Rocamadour, and here is a Google List of Accommodations in or near Rocamadour. We ate breakfast at the Logis Hôtel le Belvédère and it is about as close as you can get to the religious site.
Château de Beynac, France Map
Château de Beynac is located approximately 25 kilometers south of Sarlat, and as this Chateau was used as a film set for the movie "The Last Duel", so we were eager to visit and explore.
Château de Beynac is a captivating medieval fortress perched dramatically on a limestone cliff (more than 150 meters tall) overlooking the Dordogne River in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of southwestern France. This imposing castle, which dates back to the 12th century, is one of the most iconic and well-preserved examples of medieval military architecture in the country.
Beynac's strategic location and impressive defensive features, including a formidable outer wall and a steep approach, made it a key stronghold during the Hundred Years' War between England and France. Its well-preserved interior offers visitors a fascinating journey through time, with furnished rooms, medieval weaponry, and historical exhibits that provide insight into the castle's rich history.
The panoramic views from the castle's ramparts are absolutely breathtaking, offering a glimpse of the picturesque Dordogne Valley and the neighboring Château de Castelnaud. The castle's captivating ambiance, history, and stunning surroundings make it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and anyone seeking to immerse themselves in the medieval heritage of France.
Château de Beynac Parking
Parking is very limited in the village of Beynac, and there are several lots as you proceed up the Route de Château. If you were to park at either of those parking lots (both are payant types), you would still have quite a hike to get to the Château entrance. We did some research and found that if we continued to the top of the Route de Château and then turned right and followed it as it descended back towards the Chateau, it leads to a parking lot immediately behind the Château de Beynac entrance (On the map, that lot is titled as "Parking Bus Château de Beynac").
TIP: You have to get Château de Beynac very early (the Château opens at 10AM) because the parking lots fill up very quickly. We parked at 9:30AM, fed the payant machine, strolled over to the Château entrance and purchased our entrance tickets when they opened a few minutes later. If you get here later in the day, you are going to run the risk of not being able to park, or worse, you will wind up cruising around hoping for somebody to depart so you can grab their parking space.
More Info for Château de Beynac
- Parking: Here is a Google Map link for Chateau parking, there aren't many spaces and they go fast, get there early in the day.
- Château de Beynac Tickets: Adult prices currently €11.50 per person. Please refer to their website for further details regarding prices and hours.
- Château de Beynac Hours: 10.00 – 18.00, 7 days a week.
- Restaurants in or near Château de Beynac: Here is a Google Search Results link for restaurants near Château de Beynac.
- Best Time to Visit: The castle is open year round but a visit is best between April and October when the weather is pleasant.
- Further Info: Additional visitation information can be found on the "Get Your Guide" site.
- Wikipedia Article: Click here to view the Wikipedia Article.
- Our Image Gallery: Click here to view our Château de Beynac Image Gallery.
- Google Image Gallery: Click here to view the Google Images set for Château de Beynac.
- Château de Beynac Website: Click here to visit their Website.
- Accommodations near Château de Beynac: This is a small village (2015 population was 552) so there are few accommodations in the village itself. Here is a Google List link for accommodations near Château de Beynac, France.
Domme, France Map
Domme is 12.7 kilometers from our rental in Sarlat-la-Canéda, straight south on the D-46. This area has a number of places we plan to visit; Domme, Château de Beynac and Château des Milandes - all which are located within 12 kilometers of each other.
Domme, located in the picturesque Dordogne region of southwestern France, is a charming village that exudes medieval charm and historical significance. Perched atop a steep hill, it offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, making it a popular destination for tourists seeking both beauty and history.
The village itself is a testament to France's rich heritage, with its well-preserved cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and a central square bustling with cafes and shops. Dominating the scene is the imposing Sainte-Marie Church, a stunning example of Gothic architecture. As you wander through the winding streets, you'll discover hidden gems like the ancient ramparts, fortified gates, and the eerie Grotte de Domme, a natural cave system with a fascinating history.
Domme also played a pivotal role during the Hundred Years' War, serving as a strategic stronghold. Its history is showcased in the Domme Museum, which houses artifacts and exhibits that bring the past to life.
Domme has been selected as one of the "Most beautiful villages in the Dordogne Valley France". Click here to read more about Domme and other Dordogne Villages
More Info for Village of Domme
- Parking: There are parking lots with paid parking (payant) in the village (free overnight up to 10am) and also overflow parking lots outside the village walls on the Eastern side of the village (payant).
- Tickets: Village entrance is free.
- Hours: Village Gates are always open.
- Restaurants: Here is a Google Search Results link for restaurants in Domme.
- Further Info: Additional visitation information can be found on the "Get Your Guide" site.
- Wikipedia Article: Click here to view the Wikipedia Article.
- Our Image Gallery: Click here to view our Domme Image Gallery.
- Google Image Gallery: Click here to view the Google Images set for Domme.
- Accommodations near Domme: This is a small village (2015 population was 923) so there aren't many accommodations in the village itself. Here is a Google List link for accommodations near Domme, France.
Château des Milandes Map
Visiting Château des Milande was easy, because we had just departed Château de Beynac on the north side of the Dordogne River, a 9.7 kilometer drive - and - Milande is on the south side of the river. (use the "map" link above to view these locations).
This Château was made famous because it was purchased by Josephine Baker in 1947, and was originally built by François de Caumont around 1489, it was, until 1535, the main house of the lords of Caumont, who preferred to live in this manor house instead of the large, uncomfortable medieval castle of Château de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle (4.2 kilometers east - you will drive right next to it after you cross the bridge over the Dordogne River).
The castle's architecture is a blend of Renaissance and Gothic styles. The main façade is decorated with intricate carvings, including the Caumont coat of arms. The castle is surrounded by a moat and a beautiful park.
In 1940, Josephine Baker rented the Château des Milandes, and she purchased it in 1947. Baker lived in the castle with her husband, Jo Bouillon, and their adopted children from all over the world. Baker also used the castle to host parties and events, and she even built a small zoo on the property.
With its rich history, stunning architecture, and association with a cultural icon, Château des Milandes stands as a testament to the charm and allure of the Dordogne region, drawing visitors from around the world to immerse themselves in its unique blend of history and artistry.
More Info for Château des Milandes
- Warning: Photographs are prohibited inside the castle due to copyright.
- Parking: There is a large public (free) parking lot adjacent to the Château entrance.
- Tickets: Adult price is currently €13.50 per person.
- Hours: 9:30AM to 6:00PM, 7 days a week.
- Restaurants: Here is a Google Search Results link for restaurants near Château des Milandes. The Brasserie du Château is located adjacent to the Château building, reserved for visitors with entrance tickets.
- Further Info: Additional visitation information can be found on the "Get Your Guide" site.
- Wikipedia Article: Click here to view the Wikipedia Article.
- Our Image Gallery: Click here to view our Château des Milandes Image Gallery.
- Google Image Gallery: Click here to view the Google Images set for Château des Milandes.
- Château des Milandes Website: Click here to visit their Website.
- Accommodations near Château des Milandes: The Château des Milandes is isolated in the countryside, so you would have to drive a few miles to reach any place to stay. Here is a Google List link for accommodations near Château des Milandes, France.
Canoës Loisirs, France Map
This was a place on the Dordogne River (village of Vitrac) that we found as we drove south on the D-46 from Sarlat to Domme - drove around a corner and there it was - it looked so inviting & cool so we stopped to take some pictures and find out what it was all about. We parked in their large parking lot and then hiked about the facilities which were clean and well equipped with an eatery as well.
We discovered that we could have parked there, rented a canoe and paddled either to Domme or Beynac where they provide a landing spot for you to return your canoe and take a ride back to your car on their bus. If we had done better research, we probably would have gone paddling! A Dordogne Canoe Trip would be an adventure for a nice day on another trip!
Canoës Loisirs is a leading provider of canoe and kayak rentals on the Dordogne River. They offer a variety of canoe trips to suit all levels of experience, from beginner to expert. You can choose from a half-day trip to a multi-day adventure, with the option to stay in campgrounds or hotels along the way. In addition to their canoe & kayak rentals, they offer horseback riding, mountain biking, rock climbing, caving as well as providing equipment to business groups/group outings.
One of the most popular canoe trips offered by them is the Vitrac-Beynac descent. This 10-mile trip takes you past some of the most iconic castles in the Dordogne Valley, including the Château de Beynac, the Château de Castelnaud, and the Château des Milandes. You will also pass through the charming villages of Beynac-et-Cazenac and La Roque-Gageac.
More Info for Canoës Loisirs
- Parking: There is a very large public (free) parking lot next to their facilities.
- Prices: Varies by the route you select, for example, the Beynac route is €22.0 per Adult.
- Hours: Continuous departure from the base at Vitrac from 9.30 am to 3.30 pm.
- Restaurants: Here is a Google Search Results link for restaurants near Canoës Loisirs, Vitrac, France.
- Further Info: Additional visitation information can be found on the "Get Your Guide" site.
- Wikipedia Article: Click here to view the Wikipedia Article.
- Our Image Gallery: Click here to view our Canoës Loisirs Image Gallery.
- Google Image Gallery: Click here to view the Google Images set for Canoës Loisirs.
- Canoës Loisirs Website: Click here to visit their Website.
Some Useful Links for the Dordogne Valley
- Discovering the Dordogne Valley on 'The Crazy Tourist' Site
- Google Search Results list for "accommodations in Dordogne"
- From Sarlat-la-Canéda: Dordogne Valley Half-Day Private Tour from the "Get Your Guide" site
- Just Traveling Thru European Travel Tips
- Just Traveling Thru Travel Planning Tips
- All of our Dordogne Valley Images
- Visit our Youtube Channel
- Wikipedia Article for Dordogne Valley
- Google Image Gallery for Sarlat
The first column below ("All Trip Destinations") lists all of our major trip destinations (for this trip) and the next four columns list each of our trip "basecamps" and then a list of what we explored from that basecamp. Each destination name is linked to it's page - so all you need to do is click that name.
All Trip Destinations
Loire Base Camp #2
Loire Base Camp #3
Dordogne Valley
The following list contains links to all of our other French Destinations, click any blue colored link to go to that page.
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