Rouen France
Historic Charm, Impressionist Inspiration, and Seine River Beauty
by Celeste Lipford and Terry Lipford - last updated on 11/16/2024
This was as far west as our Viking River Cruise travelled during our "Paris & the Heart of Normandy" cruise. Our goal here was a day trip to the WW2 Gold & Omaha Invasion Beaches, as well as some free time in the city, which we put to good use!
Quick Rouen Overview: Rouen is the capital of the Haute-Normandie (Upper Normandy) region in northern France in the department of Seine-Maritime. It lies on the River Seine and is the historic capital city of Normandy. Rouen and 70 suburban communes of the metropolitan area form the Agglomeration Community of Rouen-Elbeuf-Austreberthe (CREA). The city has a population of 110,000 and its metropolitan area includes 500,000 residents who are known colloquially as Rouennais. It is approximately 90 minutes (135km) drive northwest from the centre of Paris. A thriving industrial and commercial centre, Rouen is the third largest port in France.
Tidal Variation in Rouen HarborRouen is 90 kilometers from Le Havre, which means that tidal variations in the Seine River were going to be reactive to the tides that take place in the English Channel, where Le Havre is located. We had a balcony cabin on our Viking Ship and when it first tied up alongside the Port of Rouen, our view through our balcony door was unobstructed. Later that evening, after low tide, the Viking Ship now was actually below the surface level of the dock and our view was of the pier wall. We did not measure how far the ship had dropped, but it was easily at least 10 feet. Of course later on, when the high tide came in, the ship was once again back where it started level with the dock.
This tidal effect impacts maritime operations, with fluctuations of up to 7 meters (23 feet) during spring tides. As a result, the harbor has specialized infrastructure to manage these variations, including tidal gauges and adapted dock facilities to ensure safe mooring and navigation for vessels entering or leaving the port at different water levels.
One of the things that Rouen is perhaps most famous for, is being the city in which Joan of Arc was executed (in 1431 during the 100 years war). For those of you not familiar with Joan's demise, she was captured by a French unit loyal to the English Army, and sold to the English. The English brought Joan to trial as a heretic, because she claimed to speak to God and she wore pants (considered by the Catholic church to be heretical).
Although Joan initially confessed, and was sentenced to life imprisonment, she recanted her confession three days later, and the English then promptly had her burned at the stake. England had lost Normandy to King Phillip II in 1204, and the 100 years war was all about England wanting to recapture parts of France (if not all of it).
For a much more complete story of Joan, click here to go to the Wikipedia Site.
Click here to view the Viking River Cruises Website page for their "Paris & the Heart of Normandy" Cruise.
Fun and/or Interesting facts about Rouen
Rouen, the historic capital of Normandy in northern France, is a city rich with culture, history, and art. Here are ten of the most interesting facts about Rouen:
- Joan of Arc's Trial and Execution: Rouen is famously known as the city where Joan of Arc was tried for heresy and burned at the stake in 1431. You can visit the Church of Saint Joan of Arc and the Joan of Arc Tower, the remains of the castle where her trial was held.
- The Rouen Cathedral: Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen is one of the most famous Gothic cathedrals in France. Its façade was painted many times by the Impressionist artist Claude Monet, making it one of the most depicted buildings in art history.
- Capital of Normandy: Rouen was historically the capital of the Duchy of Normandy, an influential region during the Middle Ages, and the place where William the Conqueror prepared his invasion of England.
- Impressionist Art Connection: Besides Monet, Rouen has strong ties to Impressionism. The city's light and its picturesque medieval streets inspired many painters. The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen holds an impressive collection of Impressionist art.
- The Great Clock of Rouen: The Gros-Horloge, or Great Clock, is one of Rouen's most iconic landmarks. Installed in 1389, it is a beautifully decorated astronomical clock that showcases the city's medieval craftsmanship.
- Viking Heritage: Rouen has Viking roots, having been founded by Viking invaders in the 9th century. The name Normandy itself comes from the "Norsemen" or Vikings who settled the region, and Rouen was a key city in their territory.
- Famous for its Timber-Framed Houses: Rouen is known for its beautiful half-timbered houses that line many of the streets in the old town. These buildings, dating back to medieval times, give the city a distinct and charming character.
- Historical Capital of the Duchy of Normandy: As the historical capital of Normandy, Rouen played a central role in the region's politics and commerce during the Middle Ages. It was the seat of the Dukes of Normandy, including William the Conqueror.
- Rouen's Museums and Culture: Rouen boasts many cultural institutions, including the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which holds works by artists like Caravaggio, Rubens, and of course, Monet. The Historial Jeanne d’Arc museum is also a must-visit for those interested in the story of Joan of Arc.
- A Place of Religious Significance: Rouen has long been an important religious center in France. In addition to its famous cathedral, it is home to many historic churches, such as Saint-Maclou and Saint-Ouen Abbey Church, which display extraordinary examples of Gothic architecture.
Rouen's compact layout, charming medieval streets, and well-preserved historical landmarks make it easy and enjoyable to explore on foot. Many streets in the old town are narrow and either pedestrian-only or have minimal traffic. This creates a relaxed atmosphere for walking, especially in the areas near the cathedral and the half-timbered houses.
Exploring Rouen Map
This is the actual site (the sign marks the spot) where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. In fact, the entire area is a memorial to Joan, who is now considered a saint. It is a truly somber thing to stand at this spot, you cannot help but be moved to think of Joan went through here.
It was odd to think that such a thing could have been done to a true French patriot, as well as a woman. But the English were eager to remove Joan from the war with the French, and the French King was convinced that he should not ransom Joan, so her doom was concluded at this very spot.
Joan actually died of smoke inhalation. The Cardinal of Winchester is recorded as having ordered her to be burnt a second time. Her organs still survived this fire, so a third burning was ordered to destroy the body completely. Her cinders and debris were to be thrown into the Seine.
If you are interested in the Joan of Arc story, click here for the short version in Wiki. If you have ever seen any of the "Joan of Arc" movies or read any of the books, then visiting this site is fascinating, as it brings history to life!
NOTE: The building on the right of this image is the Catholic Church of St Joan of Arc.
Place du Vieux Marché ("Old Market Square")
This area is directly across the street from the Joan of Arc execution site and the Catholic Church, the area has several eating establishments (Cayman's in the center of image # 1 for example) as well as several take-out shops. Many people will purchase their lunch in one of these shops, and then sit on the stones to enjoy their meal.
Rouen Pedestrian Zone
Here we are walking up the Rue du Gros Horloge (one of the many scenic streets in Rouen), you can also easily discern that this is a "pedestrian only" street, and it is equipped with a number of sidewalk cafes, pubs, shops, etc.
Rouen is a very walkable city, and on a nice day (like we had) we easily covered the entire downtown pedestrian area in a matter of hours.
Rouen Cathedral
Image # 1 is the front side of the Cathedral, and image # 2 is of the rear-side of the Cathedral.
Even though the Rouen cathedral had some exterior work being performed, you can still see how beautiful it is. Very similar architecture to Notre Dame in Paris, and in fact, a similar interior layout as well. However, the Rouen Cathedral has the distinction of being the tallest in France
A church was already present at the location in the late 4th century, and eventually a Cathedral was established in Rouen as in Poitiers. It was enlarged by St. Ouen in 650, and visited by Charlemagne in 769.
All the buildings were destroyed during a Viking raid in the 9th century. The Viking leader, Rollo, founder of the Duchy of Normandy, was baptised here in 915 and buried in 932. His grandson, Richard I, further enlarged it in 950. St. Romain's tower was built in 1035. The buildings of Archbishop Robert II were consecrated in 1065. The cathedral was struck by lightning in 1110.
Construction on the current building began in the 12th century in Early Gothic style for Saint Romain's tower, front side porches and part of the nave. The cathedral was burnt in 1200. Others were built in High Gothic style for the mainworks: nave, transept, choir and first floor of the lantern tower in the 13th century; side chapels, lady chapel and side doorways in the 14th century. Some windows are still decorated with stained glass of the 13th century, famous because of a special cobalt blue colour, known as "the blue from Chartres". The north transept end commenced in 1280.
Note that this is the tallest cathedral in France at 151 meters, in comparison, Notre Dame Paris is 96 meters tall.
This is a very large cathedral; 144 meters in length, 61.6 meters wide, central spire is 151 meters in height, the other two towers are 75 and 82 meters in height. There was quite a bit of damage from WW2 bombings, and over the previous five centuries, damage has been done from other wars - including damage from a hurricane in 1683!
More Info for the Primatial Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Rouen
- The Rouen Cathedral Wikipedia Article:
- The Rouen Cathedral Google Images Set:
- Google Reviews for the Rouen Cathedral: oogle Reviews
Image Credits:
- The second image (rear of Cathedral) is the property of Giogo via Wikipedia.
- All other images are the property of Just Traveling Thru, LLC.
Rouen Cathedral Interior
These pictures should give you a wee bit of an idea how large the Rouen Cathedral interior is, and how similar it is to Notre Dame de Paris.
The Rouen cathedral is substantially newer than the Notre Dame de Paris, as it was opened in 1876 - however, it is important to note that there has been a church there for many years and the current church was consecrated in 1063. In comparison, Notre Dame de Paris construction was started in 1176 and it was completed & opened in 1345.
Le Gros Horloge (aka "The Big Clock")
This clock is set in a Renaissance street-arch, a beautifully decorated astronomical clock. Known as Le Gros Horloge, the mechanism was made in 1389, making it one of the oldest, working clocks in Europe.
The clock’s movement was made in 1389, and installed in the adjacent belfry that was constructed at the same time. The bells in the belfry were the first set of municipal bells in Rouen. At this time there was no dial to the clock. With the construction of the arch between 1527 and 1529, the clock was moved to the arch and attached to two identical dials – one on each side of the arch. Each dial is about two and a half meters in diameter.
This pedestrian walkway is named the Rue du Gros Horloge and will eventually take us to the Rouen Cathedral.
More Info for Le Gros Horloge
- Le Gros Horloge Wikipedia Article:
- Le Gros Horloge Google Images Set:
- Google Reviews for Le Gros Horloge: oogle Reviews
Image Credits:
- Image # 2 (right side) is the property of DXR via Wikimedia Commons.
- All other images are the property of Just Traveling Thru, LLC, unless otherwise noted.
Dinner in Rouen
Celeste and I decided that for our last night in Rouen, that we had to go ashore and find ourselves a sidewalk restaurant that served mussels, french fries & beer. This was not a negative response to the food on the ship, it was consistently quite good, but we wanted to have a real French sidewalk cafe experience with "real" French cuisine.
We found Le Rocher on Yelp, and when the concierge on the Viking Spirit confirmed that she knew of it as well, we decided to hike over there and give it a try.
To say that it was good does not really do it justice, it was excellent, we had a great sidewalk table, it was a beautiful evening and we enjoyed having a romantic dinner together! Not sure what the name of the beer was, but it was bière ala pression (beer on tap) and it was the perfect complement to our meal.
POST EDIT: In an absolutely amazing coincidence, we found that the people that owned the Le Rocher Restaurant had relocated to Nice, France and we wound up eating dinner there on a subsequent trip to France. You will find images and a description of that visit on our Nice, France page.
NOTE: Please note that there is no link to their previous location in Rouen, as they are now located in Nice, France. Therefore, the link we have here is for their new location.
Some Useful Links for Rouen
- Just Traveling Thru European Travel Tips
- Just Traveling Thru Travel Planning Tips
- Rouen History on the 'Britannica' site
- Things to see & do in Rouen on the 'Crazy Tourist' site
- Things to see & do in Rouen on the 'Trip Savvy' site
- Things to see & do in Rouen on the 'Culture Trip' site
- Google Search Results list for "Rouen Restaurants"
- Google Search Results list for "Rouen Accommodations"
- Rouen: Private Walking Tour with a local Guide from the "Get Your Guide" Site
- Amazon Search Results for "Rouen France"
- Youtube Search Results list for "Rouen France"
- Visit our Youtube Channel
- Rouen Wikipedia Article
- Our Rouen Image Gallery
- Google Images set for Rouen
- Google Reviews for Rouen, France
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